Amaia Montero’s Gipuzkoan hometown: a Roman museum, iron furnaces and a wetland about 20 kilometres from San Sebastián

Some cities tell their story in layers. In Irún, Roman baths appear under the asphalt; on the slopes of the mountain, iron furnaces from the 19th century. It is a city best read with your eyes on the ground.

It is also the hometown of Amaia Montero, according to Vanitatis. The outlet points out that, despite La Oreja de Van Gogh’s bond with San Sebastián, present in so many of their songs, the artist is a native of this border town shaped by the River Bidasoa.

Irún is about 20 kilometres from San Sebastián and has some 63,800 inhabitants. This guide brings together the stops that best explain its character as a city between mountains and sea.

Amaia Montero and her hometown

The singer herself spoke about Irún in an interview in 20 minutos quoted by Vanitatis: “It is there that I feel protected… I needed the calm and the isolation that being there gives me in order to compose.” Those are her words about the place, and they give a hint of the atmosphere: river, mountain and a slower pace than the capital’s.

The city is connected with Hendaye, in France, through the surroundings of the River Bidasoa and the bay of Txingudi. It is ringed by mountains such as Jaizkibel and the Peñas de Aia.

1 Oiasso Roman Museum

It is the city’s great cultural symbol and is considered the main Roman archaeological centre in the Basque Country. It brings together the finds that turned up underground, where ancient Oiasso stood, a Roman port active between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD.

The collections show remains of baths, necropolises, mining tools, pieces of maritime trade and everyday objects. Give it a morning and check opening times and visiting conditions on the official website beforehand.

2 The church of Nuestra Señora del Juncal

A landmark of Basque late Gothic, from the 16th century. Irún was a key crossing point between the peninsula and France, and also the scene of conflicts, especially in the Napoleonic and Carlist wars, which destroyed part of its heritage.

That the city keeps buildings like this one speaks of its ability to rebuild itself. Look at the façade in the afternoon light.

3 The Urdanibia Palace

It is an example of Basque Renaissance architecture. It stands in the town centre and fits into a walk through the centre on foot, with no need for a car.

If you are interested in architecture, combine it with the Juncal in a single one-hour circuit.

4 The Irugurutzeta Furnaces

It is one of the most surprising places in the area. It is a complex of industrial heritage on the slopes of Aiako Harria, linked to iron mining, with its peak activity between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th.

It keeps nine of the original eleven furnaces and is considered one of the best examples of industrial archaeology in the Basque Country. Wear comfortable shoes and, if you have a camera, make the most of the side light in the morning.

5 Mount San Marcial

From its summit you overlook the whole bay. The battle of 1522 is commemorated there, and celebrated every year in the Alarde de San Marcial.

Go up in mountain footwear and good weather. (Fog can block the view within minutes.)

6 Plaiaundi Ecological Park

It is one of the most important wetlands in the north of the peninsula. It covers about 24 hectares of marshland in the bay of Txingudi, at the mouth of the Bidasoa, and is a stopover for migratory birds.

Bring binoculars. In autumn and winter there are usually more species.

7 The Bidasoa bank and Pheasant Island

It is worth going to the bank to see Pheasant Island, a small river enclave considered the smallest condominium in the world, historically shared between Spain and France. The Peace of the Pyrenees was signed there, in 1659.

It is seen from the riverbank. Here history is seen from afar and is better understood with a good map to hand.

8 The old quarter and Plaza de San Juan

The old town concentrates social life. The Plaza de San Juan, near the town hall, is a good starting point for touring taverns and terraces.

Order a pintxo and a glass of txakoli, and move from bar to bar. If it is the weekend, arrive early.

9 Hondarribia, a stone’s throw away

From Irún, Hondarribia is very close. Its walled old town and the fishermen’s quarter of La Marina make it a short, photogenic excursion.

Hondarribia is also home to San Sebastián airport, which saves you the car if you arrive by plane.

Practical tips

• How to get there: by car or train from San Sebastián, about 20 kilometres away; confirm train times before setting out.
• How many days: one day for the museum and centre; two if you add Irugurutzeta, Plaiaundi and San Marcial.
• Best time: spring and autumn. In summer, get up early and avoid the middle hours in the mountains.
• Where to sleep: in the city itself or in Hondarribia; anyone wanting to escape the prices of central San Sebastián can stay here.

Irún is understood slowly: a museum that teaches about a Roman port, iron furnaces under a mountain and a marsh full of birds. It is a border city with more past than meets the eye. Do you start with Oiasso or with the furnaces?